A common conversation amongst Jefferson County residents is about food: restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops; old standbys, newly opened, recently closed, newly re-opened. This semi-regular Rainshadow column is to highlight those that may be off your radar.
Admiralty Fine Foods
Admiralty Fine Foods opened in late 2021 in the location of a series of beloved sandwich shops. Like so many out-of-the-way places in Port Townsend, entering the space feels like walking through Narnia’s magic wardrobe. From Water Street, you turn into a narrow walkway between the golden green hues emanating from the olive oil store and the intoxicating aromas of the spice shop: a perfect appetizer for your Admiralty experience.
Admiralty was opened by local Toby Warren and his partner Millie Henry. Both bring an artistic flair and an interest in community. Admiralty has something for everyone and is therefore hard to encapsulate in a phrase, although their sidewalk sandwich board does a nice job: Small Plates, Heavy Pours. The chosen name, with the “Fine Foods” modifier, seems opaque and not really catchy. Once you visit, however, check out the tiny mercantile offering a random assortment of products from tinned fish to spruce tip jelly. They also feature a wide variety of wines and cocktails, some of which are available at the Merc.
Due to their scenic location with a deck overlooking Port Townsend Bay, one might assume it’s a spot for summertime tourists (or locals) to while away the day (not that there is anything wrong with this). If you check out their Facebook or Instagram site, however, you will see there is a lot going on in this intimate space. They sponsor local artists through special events and displaying their work on the walls of the restaurant. They have special pop-ups throughout the year for special visiting chefs: Thai, Peruvian, Jamaican are among the intriguing examples. They often have specials when local ingredients are available. In season, a whole branzino fish is offered. They also have special menus for occasions like Valentine’s Day or Cinco de Mayo.
Incognita and friends visited on several occasions and tested many items from their regular menus. The space is light with white walls, interspersed with a rotating collection of art on sale. The daytime ambience meshes and does not compete with the bay view. At night, soft lighting provides atmosphere, but some tables had insufficient table lighting to inspire intimate conversation. The restaurant has a generous and beautiful fir bar top with several barstools. The bar appeared to be a popular hangout as each evening progressed. There is recorded music that, on our visits, was perhaps a little too loud but not offensive.
Our first visit was on a stormy afternoon prior to sunset. Sitting by a large window overlooking the windswept bay while drinking a fine glass of red wine is a lovely way to spend a winter’s afternoon. The proprietors kindly offer access to binoculars so that you can observe birds and mammals.
Service was uniformly friendly and informative. We were always supplied with a bottle of water upon arriving – a nice touch. There are great deals on drinks and small sharing plates for happy hour. Much of the regular menu space is given to selected wines and cocktails, so be prepared to be adventurous.
Many of the sharing and happy hour plates offer comfort food that go well with drinks, including smoked salmon brandade (an emulsion of salmon, potato and pecorino Romano cheese), poutine, and croque monsieur (ham, gruyère, and bechamel on country bread). These were comforting and tasty, but on the salty side. One of the pleasant surprises was hummus with zhoug sauce – a spicy cilantro-forward accompaniment. It is a mark of an interesting restaurant when the menu inspires you to look up an ingredient or two.
One of the best items from the happy hour and main menu was the simple hazelnut salad: greens with a tart hazelnut vinaigrette. It offered a nice contrast to the heavier small plates. The daily flatbread was crispy and satisfying, with a light topping of arugula.
Another visit was later in the evening to allow an exploration of the Hearty Plates. At that time, the regular menu offered clams, French onion soup, brown butter trout, Moroccan tagine, and beef bourguignon. We tried the soup and the bourguignon. Both had deep flavor, rich but not cloying, and were especially good with our selected red wine.
The proprietors seek to ensure that the food is from local vendors. The diversity of the menu is admirable considering that the kitchen has limited room and equipment. One gluten-free friend did have a hard time finding options. We have sampled happy hour and dinner, but not yet Sunday brunch, which is known for, among other offerings, the Spam Sammie and shakshuka, a Middle Eastern egg dish.
How have I missed Admiral’s up to now? Pre-pandemic we enjoyed having a sandwich on the deck and are happy that there is another option using that unique and inspiring space. The restaurant also has a lunch menu: check with social media or their website for latest hours. Now that I have discovered Admiral’s, I look forward to trying brunch, and checking for unusual pop-ups and special occasion menus.
Happy hours prices are very reasonable, ranging from $10-12 for sharing plates, and $5-8 dollars for beer, wine, and cocktails. On the main menu, hearty plates are the most expensive, ranging from $16-26. Hours vary, but you can find them open in the winter most commonly from 2-9, with brunch hours on Sundays.
Admiralty Fine Foods
929 Water St, Port Townsend
(Where Howell’s and Jordini’s used to be)
Rainbow Rating (out of 4): 🌈 🌈 🌈
